The allowance or taper is the amount of inches of fabric to be added to the customer’s actual skin measurements. Below we have listed variations of tapers from a very full cut shirt to a very trim cut.

Custom shirt fashions can change from year to year. The styling can go from a very tapered look to an oversize dress look. Depending on the current fashion, and your own valuable input, you will be able to decide on the correct taper. You can request any number of inches over for an allowance. The tapers listed below are just a guideline.

ALLOWANCES:

+ 4 or + 5 TRIM FIT was popular in the 70s as a European cut. This is a very tight fit.

+ 6 or + 7 REGULAR FIT is good for a customer that has been buying custom shirts and likes a clean fit.

+ 8 or + 9 FULL FIT offers room to move but isn’t sloppy. Good for the customer who has worn oversize but wants to clean up the excess material.

+ 10 or + more OVERSIZE for the customer who enjoys the ease of a very relaxed fit. Will be able to move with complete freedom.

Example: Actual skin measurements is 44’’ with a FULL FIT of + 8. In your order, write 44+8.

NOTE: Chest measurements must be given in FULL INCH increments only. WAIST and HIP measurements may be given in HALF or FULL INCH increments only.

You can use any numbers for allowances. Remember, the tapers listed above are only guidelines.

For more information on Alan David Custom Shirts, please contact Alan or Arnold at 212.227.4040.